I understand what you're saying Grubs, but if the tree is small enough to tear your strap wood, you should just be doing a one cut slice to drop the tree, not messing with a quarter cut. You don't cut below the bore cut (which does go all the way through the tree for whoever asked) when cutting the straps, if the wedge is in and tight it will keep the tree from leaning back onto the bar because there is solid wood above and below the wedge at all times, there's nowhere for the tree to lean back on, no kerf. I use this method fairly often for cutting trees that are too big to push over, but too small to wedge over traditionally, and I've never had a tree do anything out of the ordinary while doing it, just make sure you leave enough hinge wood, and pound the heck out of that wedge to break the fiber bonds that go vertically from your bore cut to your 2 back cuts (one on either side of the bore cut and slightly above). The tree will fall exactly where your bore cut is pointing (if your hinge is accurate anyway). While your hinge wood is holding the tree up start beating on your wedge. Don't cut directly over the bore cut, just on either side, if the tree is leaning to one side, cut that strap last (the one that is being pulled, not compressed, by the lean).ĥ. Cut the two straps you have left, on either side of the bore but higher than the bore cut, and leave your hinge. Tap your wedge in to make sure its tight.Ĥ. Cut your notch or face cut, right about level with your bore cut if you can. Put your wedge in that bore cut and gently tap it in.ģ. Bore into the tree pointing the bar directly toward where you want the tree to fall (with the bar parallel to the ground obviously).Ģ. Quarter cut is your real only viable option that never risks pinching the saw, or cutting through your hinge wood.ġ.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |